I love the concept of this book (not so much the anti-Narnia of Pullman as a 90º twist on it); I love the beautiful writing (with words that “did not pretend to be simple, but put on their full armor and rode out with colors flying.”); I love how well it achieves hiding the story for adults inside the story for children; I love how complex the main character is compared to her equivalents in most similar books (and how she's a rejection of the Chosen One trope); I love so many of the delightful concepts sprinkled throughout (though I feel sorry for the translators who'll need to handle a character who knows nothing about anything outside the A–L volume of the encyclopedia). But despite all this, the book was a struggle, largely because the story itself just didn't grip me.